Patagonia December 2023

 We set off on a belated 20th anniversary trip to El Encuentro fly fishing lodge on December 13th, flying a red-eye from Seattle to Miami in order to connect to Buenos Aires (another overnight flight) and eventually Trevelin by way of Esquel.  Facing two red-eyes in two days, we elected to upgrade our seats to first class for the first leg in order to store some valuable sleep points.  We had a long layover in Miami and purchased lounge passes for more comfortable resting options and a shower.  Both of those decisions paid wonderful dividends.  We headed to our gate, eager to get to Buenos Aires.  If you've ever flown American Airlines, your wheels are turning, but keep reading.  When flying into and then within Argentina, you must transfer from the international airport (EZE) to the national airport (AEP).  It is is advised to give yourself three hours to make the transfer given you must clear customs and navigate Buenos Aires.  Additionally, flying from AEP to Esquel, there is only one flight per day, so we gave ourselves double the time, or six hours, to make the trip.  American Airlines made quick work of that surplus.  Delay, delay, delay.  New gate, new plane, delay.  Four hours later, we were taking off from Miami, facing the prospect that we would not have enough time to make our flight to Esquel and would therefore miss the first day of our guided trip with El Encuentro.  We had pre-booked a transfer from EZE to AEP, so I was in the process of canceling that but elected to wait until we landed.  We landed at EZE and headed straight to customs, which went very quickly and went to retrieve our bags, which tumbled out of the baggage claim first.  After a quick x-ray scan of our suitcases, we did a quick check and saw we had two hours to get to AEP.  We decided to give it a go.  Our driver was front and center (thrilled I didn't cancel as I figured we'd need him to get us to BA for a hotel anyway if we missed our connection).  He scooped up our bags, and we were off.  We weaved through traffic, the outskirts of the city passing as a blur as my mind raced through the possibilities.  Could we make it?  Were we going to just miss it?  Google maps showed it was going to be close and improbable, but we persisted.  Our driver, oblivious to our haste, stopped to let everyone cross the street, merge in traffic, you name it.  He told us he spoke no English, and our Spanish is definitely not sophisticated enough to convey any complex ideas or urgency, or maybe we were just too exhausted and elected to let things play out naturally.  We pulled up to the departures area, and I remember looking at the clock in the van, 12:19.  Our boarding time was 12:25.  There was no way, I thought.  Inside, we weaved through the maze to the Aerolineas ticket counter.  The agents greeted us, and when asked how we were, I said, "extremely late, can we make it?"  They were amazing.  Yes, they said, we're going to make this happen.  Ignoring our overweight bags for domestic travel (the limit is 37 lbs compared to 50 for international), they told us to run to security, and if there was a line to go to the front and explain.  Up the escalator, breezing past Santa and some elves posing with tourists, we snaked through the security maze, reaching the intake at around 12:28.  Through security, we rounded the corner to our gate, gate 7.  They had just started priority boarding, and we looked at each other and realized we had done it.  I didn't know if I was going to smile, cry, or throw up.  Exhaustion, hunger, dehydration, and 80 degree temps, but we had made it.  We were going to get to Esquel and not miss our first day.  The flight to Esquel passed quickly and was uneventful.  We were soon picked up by Tomas from El Encuentro and transported to Las Bayas in Esquel for our night's stay before transferring to El Encuentro the next morning.  A nap, some water, and a shower, and we felt human again.  We set out to walk around Esquel and find some real food (and beer).  I had spotted a Berlina brewery on the drive in, one of our favorite places from Bariloche.  The server/bartender recommended the barbecue lamb sandwich, and it was truly outstanding.  We ate, drank, and were merry before falling asleep at 7:30 pm.  We woke early the next morning for breakfast at 8 and pickup by Nico at 8:30.  

Relief as we boarded our plane from Esquel to AEP

The lobby at Las Bayas was a welcome sight

Baguales refers to a spirited horse

This sandwich was delicious and not just because we hadn't eaten a real meal since the day before

Argentine breakfast

  There is nothing better than an Argentina breakfast.  Pastries, jams, dulce de leche, fruit, cheese, yogurt.  All of it is delicious.  We ate our fair share and met up with Nico right at 8:30.  He was our guide for the day, which was going to be a full day fishing, and he was assisted by Rolo, sort of a guide in training.  We drove probably 45 minutes passing through the Welsh settled town of Trevelin before turning off onto a gravel road.  Another 30 minutes and several gates later, we arrived to a picturesque spring creek called the Nant Y Fal where Nico and Rolo constructed a tarp lean-to using the truck rack and a nearby tree where we were able to change into our waders.  The weather was temperate but breezy with some rain clouds.  We split up, one with each guide.  I went with Nico, Shaun with Rolo.  I caught a couple of small fish on a stimulator, then we began to see some hatches coming off, fish feeding, but we couldn't seem to make one stick.  We did start to see some dragon flies and two massive fish leap from the water to feed.  It was now lunch time, so we reconvened with Shaun and Rolo for some food and wine.  After lunch, we headed out together to walk into the more forested area.  Shaun hooked up with a nice rainbow on a Duracell jig nymph below a dry.  We caught several fish, dodged cows, and Nico even showed me how to eat Llao Llao, an edible orange fungus fruit that grows on the trees there.  After packing up, we made the hour and a half drive to El Encuentro where we were greeted by the staff and checked into our rooms.  Nico was only going to be our guide for the day, so we said goodbye and see you later as he would be at the Base Camp with another couple of guests later in the week.  Our accommodations were very comfortable and spacious.  We each grabbed a shower before heading to the common area for some drinks before dinner.  The scenery outside the main lodge is simply breathtaking.  Perched just above the Rio Futalefu with towering peaks surrounding, it is quite a picturesque setting.  We met a couple of guys from San Francisco who were headed out in the morning and an older couple from Missoula who would be at the lodge and the camp with us for the week.  We immediately liked them, both retired educators and enthusiastic fisherpeople.  The first night's meal was an delicious braised pork chop, and the wine flowed freely.  After the chaos of our travels, we felt immediately at ease in our new digs.  We also had the chance to meet our guide for the week, Federico, or Fede for short.  He informed us we'd float the Futalefu in the morning, and he would meet us out front just after breakfast around 8:30.  After dinner we headed to bed, exhausted but happy, eagerly anticipating the day ahead.

Dressed and ready to go

One of the places where we saw a hungry trout leap for a dragon fly

Shaun and Rolo with the Andes peaking from a distance

We watched several fish feeding in this area

Prepping lunch under the tarp

Walking across this super sturdy bridge

To the forested section

This beautiful stream running right through someone's property

Purple magic at work

And paying dividends

Caught a decent fish here

We got a few more mountain views toward the end of the day

One last look before leaving

Truck beer

Beautiful lupine at the lodge

Our first look at the Futalefu, just outside the lodge

More views from the property

The common area of the lodge

  Breakfast at the lodge was just as good as Las Bayas, and as we gathered our things, we first met Fede's helper, Aled, who like everyone else, was extremely pleasant.  Gear loaded, we hopped into the truck for a short twenty minute drive to the launch.  While there is a launch at the lodge, the other guests were launching from there, so we opted for the next one downriver.  On the drive, Fede spotted a condor soaring miles above as well as a fresh dusting on the highest peaks in view.  Aled hopped out of the truck to open the gate which allowed us to access adjacent ranch land, and as we drove over a large stream bed, we came to a muddy, mucky mess of road with deep ruts. No matter, we just drove up over the hill and through the woods until we had circumvented poor road conditions, and in another minute, we were at the launch.  Fede and Aled set up the boat as we put on our waders and got our rods together.  A short time later, we launched into the listerine blue water and began casting a dry dropper where fast water meets slow water.  I marveled at the surrounding peaks, the birds, the breeze whipping through the willows, and Shaun immediately hooked into a nice rainbow trout.  I continued to be distracted by the scenery and promptly missed a couple of fish.  We continued floating, and finally I was on the board with a rainbow of my own.  I know it sounds silly, but sometimes I worry I might go the whole trip and not actually catch anything.  Of all the illogical thoughts my brain constructs, that is one of the more absurd ones.  One, I am pretty good at fly fishing.  Two, we are fishing a river full of fish that receives very little pressure.  And three, we are fishing with an expert who knows where the fish are, what they are eating, and how to put the boat in the right places for us to cast to said fish.  All that aside, it is always a relief to get the first fish in the net.  We floated on, catching smaller fish, one of which turned out to be a rare salmon that had traversed from the Pacific.  We finally got into some bigger fish at a convergence between the main stem of the river and an adjacent fork.  We caught several fish out of that pool.  The wind was constant, alternating between predictable and swirling.  Fede was an expert at positioning the boat so each of us had the advantage of the wind at our backs from time to time.  We hit each side of the river, casting to riffles, eddies, and underneath the numerous willow bushes which is where Shaun found the first brown trout of the trip.  Fede pulled us back into a cove, which was coincidentally a welcome respite from the stiffened wind.  We were basically sight fishing to numerous browns and rainbows.  Here, Shaun caught the first sizable fish of the trip in a churning, shaded back eddy.  It put a nice bend in the rod, and we enjoyed taking some pictures of a stunner of a fish.  Time passed quickly, and it was time for lunch, so we pulled over to the bank and disembarked to a nice flat patch of land under a grove of mayten trees while several horses grazed in the distance against the backdrop of a peak called the Throne of the Clouds.  It's impossible not to be smitten by the scenery.  The lunches are as good as all of the other meals.  A charcuterie board, wine, and bread to start.  And on this day, despite the wind, Fede was tasked with cooking steak and potatoes.  He definitely had to put in some extra work to prepare an amazing meal which was greatly appreciated and enjoyed by us all.  

A light dusting of snow up top

Setting up the raft

Bye, Aled!  See you soon

Just after launch

First fish of the trip

Someone caught this rainbow, probably me since it is small

Shaun's first brown

The horses did not want to be around us

Mayten trees

For starters

Fede putting in extra work to prepare our lunch against the wind

Lunch

I thought I would have my bird book handy, but it was just too heavy, so IDK what this is

Just before another storm moved in

The color of the water constantly amazed me

What a waterfall

Throne of the Clouds

 Following a relaxing lunch, it was time to get back to it.  After navigating another quick rain shower, we found a broad eddy in a wide stretch of river.  We caught fish after fish out of that pool, even doubling up a couple of times.  We spent some additional time here and then continued downriver.  We found several other prosperous spots on the banks and under the willows before we entered another cove which was full of willows, underwater and nutrient rich algae, and large brown trout.  Shaun caught another big fish.  Fishing like this really is a team effort between angler and guide, and even the other partner sometimes spotting fish.  I was really happy Shaun had caught a couple of big browns, but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't feeling a little unfulfilled at not having gotten in the act with the brownies.  I think Fede sensed that, too, so he made a fly change and had me cast toward the bank.  I immediately had a sizable brown take the fly and wriggle off right away.  Undeterred, he instructed me to cast again, then bam!  A massive brown took the fly and took off.  He jumped, spun, and ran.  I fought him for a bit, keeping constant tension on the line to maintain an advantage, but with one final leap, he twisted off the hook, landing with an exaggerated splash.  Sometimes you have to be content with the encounter.  I felt glad to have hooked him, but damn.  It would have been nice.  Fede encouraged me to give it one more go, and sure enough, I hooked another brown.  Not near the size, but I did manage to land this one, and what it lacked in size, it made up for in unique color and markings.  To be fair, it was still a good size, but I couldn't unsee the monster that preceded it.  Despite that, I felt validated and content.  From there, we jetted off to the takeout where Aled waited with the truck and more importantly, a truck beer.  A quick drive back to the lodge and it was time for another lovely dinner.

Looking for fish among the willows

Beautiful brown, still hate I missed the big one

Sun setting on a great day

  We had decided to venture to Los Alerces National Park the next morning and fish Lago Verde before floating the Arrayanes River to the next lake, Futalaufquen, which would be our take out point.  It was about an hour and 45 minute drive, but the scenery was spectacular.  I struggled to take pictures out the window of the truck, so I resolved to just try to sit back and enjoy the profuse lupine blooms, the random flamingoes, and the snow capped peaks in every direction.  We entered the National Park and eventually transitioned from pavement to gravel, driving another 30 minutes to the end of the road, where Lago Verde greeted us after a short descent toward its banks.  We had fallen into a familiar routine- Aled and Fede would set our stuff out, and as we geared up, they would assemble and inflate the raft.  The weather was clear, windless, and cloudless.  Undeterred, we tied on some bushy dry flies and set out toward the far end of the lake where some tall grasses and algae likely held some hungry trout.  We spotted several cruisers, but after multiple casts, it was apparent they were not interested in our offerings.  Skirting the rocky cliffs, we tried a couple of more locations where Shaun caught a first rainbow.  Something about my casting felt off. The weight of the fly, the line, something.  It felt all wrong, and I was making a mess of everything.  Fede noticed, too, and suggested we try the heavier weight line from my other reel, and I asked if we could change the fly.  I know it's dumb, but I have always struggled casting a big Chubby Chernobyl, and whether it was actual or mental, I just wanted to try something different.  Between that and the heavier line, my casting returned to its normal, satisfactory state, and I continued my quest for my first trout, now with a dropper as we had moved into deeper water with algae.  Shaun continued to catch multiple fish, and despite my earlier frustration with my bad casting, I knew it was just a matter of time.  I just had to be patient.  Finally, it was my turn, and I caught a nice rainbow and then another, getting myself on the board for the day and sending my frustrations into the recesses of my memory.  Shortly afterward, we pulled over to the shore for lunch, just proximal to the transition from lake to river.  After another delicious lunch, we set off again, fishing some deep channels between breaks in the algae.  Soon after we launched, I had a huge tug and set out on a lengthy battle with a big brown trout who was intent on diving to the depths of the algae in an attempt to free itself.  Keeping enough tension to prevent the fish from getting too far into the algae, I was eventually able to bring it in.  It was a beautiful brown, the biggest of the day so far.  After some high fives and a couple of photos, we transitioned from the lake to the emerald waters of the Río Arrayanes.  The water remained crystal clear, and we were able to sight cast to good sized browns and rainbows.  We paused in a spot for Shaun to cast to a holding brown.  One, two, and on the third pass, we all watched as the fish moved out of its lane and crashed to the top, attacking the dry fly in one beautifully executed maneuver.  I was lucky to capture the scene while recording with my phone.  It was a memorable take and a great fish.  We continued floating, and I was able to catch another nice brown on a dry.  We started to see more fish launching out of the water, conveniently as we also began to see more dragon flies.  Short on time and with some distance to make up, we continued to cruise downstream, casting as we went along but no longer posting up in spots.  Just before the river flowed into lake, we did stop for a feeding frenzy of fish taking small whitish caddis from just below the surface.  We cast a few into them, and I had one on for a second, but it didn't stick.  At that point, there were so many bugs and so many fish, it was a numbers game.  Sometimes those are the hardest conditions to catch a fish as your fly is just another drop in the bucket.  Satisfied with watching them and the understanding that you can't catch all the fish all the time, we made our way to the lake take out point with some help from the motor, taking in jaw-dropping scenery along the way.  Another perfect day.  

Scenery on the way to Los Alerces was fantastic

A blurry phone pic of some flamingoes from the truck

Entering the park

View of the river from the road

Getting the boat dialed in at the launch

Ayoooo

You can see the algae here and why the fish would hide in it

One of many

Nicely colored rainbow

Loving the sunshine

Passing time till lunch

Glad to have wrestled this one in

The big brown that took me for a dive

Some glassy reflections

The bridge signifies the start of the Río Arrayanes

I love the blue cheek

The water clarity and color were almost unfathomable

A nice brown on the dry fly

On the Río Arrayanes

Leaving the river soon

Had a Jurassic Park feel

Another amazing day

Headed home

Exiting Los Arrayanes into Lago Futalaufquen

Loved all the colors of lupine

There was so much lupine everywhere

  There are a couple of lakes the guides described to us as "hero or zero" lakes meaning if you catch something, it's epic.  IF.  Because we had strung together a couple of successful days, we felt game to give it a try.  There's always a bit of anticipation before you head out to fish.  Outwardly, you express sentiments like "the fish are just a bonus" or "I'm just happy to be out here" which aren't patently untrue, but they do minimize that little feeling of turbulence in your heart and mind.  "What if I catch a massive fish?"  "What if I catch a massive fish off a dragon fly?"  With that mixed mindset, we once again headed toward Los Alerces, this time deviating onto a different forest road just after we entered the park.  The road would take us out of the national park and up through miles of burned forest.  We learned this land was part of a dispute between the current inhabitants and the indigenous dwellers of the past.  At a deadlock, the tribes threatened to burn the land, which is exactly what they did.  Many homes burned and many more were at risk.  It's not my place to wade into matters I don't truly understand, but it was a stark scar on the widely coveted land.  Acting on intel from one of the other guides, Fede informed us it was time to tie on a dragon fly.  A big, blue, quality crafted dragon fly, which we purchased at the lodge.  I was the lucky one while Shaun got a big gypsy king.  There was a lone raft there, coincidentally an off duty guide from El Encuentro.  As we were gearing up, we heard and saw several fish break the surface tension with acrobatic leaps to poach a dragon fly.  We began the day casting to the edge of some reeds which provide shelter and protective coverage to the big browns.  I had told myself I might only get one chance, so I needed to make it count should I be so fortunate.  Well, after about 15 minutes, I had a big take but failed to capitalize, and I lost it back to the lake.  Fede gave me a couple of pointers including keeping more tension on the fish to keep them from diving into the algae.  I nodded, ready to employ his tips.  Thoughts of doubt tried to creep into my brain, but a little positive self-talk and affirmation, and they were promptly vanquished.  Luckily, I didn't have to wait long for my redemption and make good on hero status.  I dropped the dragon fly just at the edge of some reeds where there was a subtle parting.  A huge dark shadow emerged from the deep and bam, the fight was on.  Keeping more tension on the fish and watching my 5 weight rod bend nearly to the cork, I was able to control the fish until we could get positioned and net it.  Fede and Shaun were both pumped, and we all were whooping it up on the raft.  Fede took us to the shore so we could take some pics while keeping the fish in the water.  When I peered into the net, I couldn't believe the size and beauty of this fish.  Vibrant yellow, blue gill plate, and a massively thick tail.  After some pics/video, and my left forearm still sore from the battle, we climbed back into the boat, and I was content to bask in the satisfaction while Shaun set out to get on the board.  And it didn't take long.  He reeled in another nice, sizable brown that hit the gypsy king, and from that point, we continued to hook fish, miss fish, land fish, and see fish throughout the rest of the day.  My luck eventually dried up on the dragon fly, and I switched to a gypsy king as well.  Almost immediately I had another fish.  After stopping for lunch, we fished for another couple of hours, covering the banks on each side of the lake, casting to cruising fish and coaxing others out of their dark holes between reeds and algae.  When it was time to return home, we all felt content, almost heroic, if you will.  This was our last night at the El Encuentro lodge, so after dinner we prepared for our transition to the Brook Trout Base Camp which would include fishing a lake along the way.  

Lakeside lupine

So relieved

Me, not believing the size (that net goes to 20" on each side of the midpoint)

The tail was so thick

My dragon fly eater

Some weight to this one

Shaun's first of the day

Almost dropped it, hence the face

Another nice brown

Beautiful views abound

Shaun fishing before lunch

Some clouds and wind rolled in for a bit

Lunch spot

Llao LLao

Bent again

This fish was very green on its back

A view of the burned area

  We left early the next morning, just after breakfast, on our way to the Base Camp, and we had decided to fish Engaño, a lake which holds big brook trout.  Engaño means cheater in Spanish, named by a woman betrayed by her philandering spouse.  She coined another lake in the region after herself, Berta, and even a second lake after her husband, Wacho, which means bastard.  What better way to commemorate infidelity than by naming a body of water that would outlast all of us and remind future generations the age old lesson that hell hath no fury like a woman scorned.  In that lake, we would be casting streamers exclusively, which I was excited about as we had fished primarily dry flies in the days prior, and this would be a new challenge.  It was a long, bumpy ride to the lake, with the road in various states of sporty. We were also heading further west, only 6 miles or so from the Chilean border, and the landscape became more rugged as we gained elevation.  We spotted more condors at a distance and passed over the Rio Corcovado which is the river that runs in front of the Camp.  From the lake, we could actually see where Argentina stopped and where Chile began in the mountain ranges besetting the scene.  Predictably, Shaun caught three fish almost immediately.  Here come thoughts of doubt, but I ushered them away again, telling myself "patience, patience, patience."  Soon after a fly change to a black leech, I felt a strong rip and applied a streamer hookset.  I could tell there was some definite bulk to this fish and concentrated on maintaining tension to prevent losing it in the deep algae and weeds.  Using a 6 weight rod and heavier line and tippet, I was able to get the fish in fairly quickly, a 22" slab of a brook trout.  We continued to have a productive early morning/afternoon before breaking for lunch.  After lunch, we motored over to another edge of the lake to fish more of the algae.  The strategy here was to toss into the breaks in the algae and strip back toward the boat, and the fish would dart from their hiding places to take the flies.  The wind had picked up considerably, bringing robust clouds with it, making it more difficult to discern the lanes we sought, so we switched to a super sophisticated strategy Nico had taught us... jigging.  Basically like ice fishing, dropping a heavy streamer into the "hole" and lifting it up and down.  I was growing weary from the wind and preferred to watch the horses nearby, so I took a break while Shaun carried the jigging mantle, and it wasn't long before he caught a nice brook that way, and we all had a good laugh.  Sometimes the how is not important.  Our time on Engaño had come to a close, and we were eager to reach the Base Camp, which was now only an hour away.  The scenery on the way to the camp was also stunning with full panoramic views of the Andes.  A few more gates, lots more hares, and we were winding through ranch land toward the Corcovado and our home for the next three nights.  We passed by Nico, Rolo, and the other two guests who would be staying at the Camp along with Mark and Jane, our friends from the lodge.   The Base Camp used to be all wall tents, but they have begun the transition to cabins with three cabins in place and only two tents remaining for a total capacity of 10 guests, though there would only be six guests while we were there.  We met our host and were shown to our cozy and well appointed cabin.  We unpacked, settled, and then headed to the main tent for dinner and drinks.  Reuniting with Mark and Jane as well as Nico and Rolo, we also met the other two guests, a husband and wife pair (three women- yay).  After dinner, we made our plan with Fede, another hero or zero lake with big rainbows and brookies.  We went to bed with the soothing sounds of the river steps away from our door.  

Lovely views

Argentina to Chile

Cheater Lake

The big one

22 inches of brook trout

Taking a quick break for some photos

Aled got to join us for lunch today

Horses in the distance

Not my biggest, but my prettiest

Shaun with a nice brookie

Another nice fish

Our cabin

Riverside

Yes, that is a bottle of Blanton's on the liquor cart

A tree cut from the property

  We were up and ready to hit hero or zero lake number two, aptly named Lake Number Two.  It was another lengthy drive over portions of the same bumpy, rough road.  We were delighted to spot not one by four condors along the way, and these were close!  Fede surmised there was probably either a dead cow or horse in the surrounding area.  For a minute we watched them soar effortlessly on their nine foot wingspans and ample breeze before continuing toward the lake.  Weaving through private and public land, we encountered a lot of gates along the way.  Some locked, some unlocked.  For the locked gates, the guides have keys, however, when we arrived at the first gate today, Aled jumped out and found not only was the gate unexpectedly locked, he did not have a key for the lock.  Undeterred, Fede jumped out, grabbed a lock from the center console and bolt cutters from the back seat.  He made quick work of the chain before applying the new lock.  We made jokes about another guide outfit locking us out but really thought nothing else of it.  We found the house of the land's caretaker, and Fede jumped out to discuss with the only person we saw who couldn't have been more than 13 or so years old.  He showed him some papers (probably an access agreement or similar) and then gave him one of the two keys to the new lock.  Then back in the truck, we pressed onward.  When we crested the ridge we had a panoramic view of the lake and surrounding peaks, and it was gawk-worthy scenery.  When we pulled down to the launch point, we saw another guide outfit's truck there.  Fede didn't say much, but it was pretty obvious to us that what we had joked about earlier is precisely what happened.  In a land so vast with such a wealth of options, it seems so petty and needlessly cutthroat to pull stunts like that.  Once dressed and ready to go, we used the motor to gain some distance between the launch and us but also the other boat.  We headed to the opposite side of the lake as them and after a few minutes of chucking nymphs, Shaun was hooked up with a massive rainbow, his real screaming and line peeling off rapidly.  He finally worked it to the net, and we all let out a scream of satisfaction.  Twenty-eight inches of chrome colored beast.  We took some pictures/videos and then climbed back in the raft to do it all again, which we did only a few minutes later.  This time, Fede spotted a big rainbow cruising in the shallows.  Shaun put a great cast in there, and soon he had a second chunky trout in the net, this one much more colorful albeit slightly smaller.  We began to see some isolated and periodic rises, which Fede told us was very unusual for this lake.  He decided to tie on a dry dropper rig for me.  After missing a fish earlier, I kept at it, and he spotted another fish cruising the shallows.  I dropped my rig in there, and we saw the fish moving quickly toward it.  We all saw the whole sequence, and it was beautiful.  The top fly went down quickly, and now I had a battle on my hands.  After watching Shaun, I knew these fish had several runs in them, so we just had to let it all play out and work the situation.  We finally netted it and the whoops went round again.  Mine measured in also at 28 inches, easily the largest fish of my life.  Pictures, videos, and high fives.  Now it was time for lunch.  The wind had picked up considerably, creating small white caps on the lake, so we headed to a small inset cove which gave us some shelter from the wind and provided a great place to relax and relieve our moments of massive trout glory. After lunch, we set out again over the ever increasing white caps to an area Fede had caught a lot of brookies in the past.  We hooked up and caught several more rainbows, all of which were good size and beautiful.  We were nearing our take out time and were fishing as we drifted back toward the launch when Shaun got a big hit.  It was clear this was a big fish, and it was fighting aggressively like a rainbow, but to our shock and delight, it turned out to be one of the legendary big brook trout that inhabit Lake Number Two.  It was dense, fat, and huge.  We were all super excited to see a fish like this, and after a few photos, we headed back to the ramp, victorious heroes once again.  I didn't even mind getting drenched from the waves, it was just a perfect day.  Again!

Another morning with the hares

Rio Corcovado

Views near camp

Views near camp

Horse in a field

Condor gliding

Looking down on the caretaker's home

Views across the lake

Shaun's first of the day

Geez

Another nice one

Beautiful colors on this one

Checking out the catch

Couldn't have done it without Federico

My biggest fish ever

Lunch spot

Delicious Malbecs daily

Fishing at the lunch spot

20 years of adventure

Slabby

Another rainbow

Big bend in the 6 weight rod

Pig

Just a tank of a fish

Legend

Happy happy

Awful lighting, amazing scenery

Cabins

 For our final fishing day, we changed it up and drove further east into more of a steppe, high desert environment.  Drier, sunnier, and windier.  No condors on this date, but we did see a few rhea, emu like birds.  We even saw some chicks as they fled our bounding vehicle, trying desperately to keep up with their parents.  We kept eyes out for guanaco but did not see any.  We approached a spring creek oasis on some expansive ranch land.  After parking the truck, we began to realize we were in for some true Patagonian wind, which we kind of wanted to experience to be honest.  Our plan was to team up with one of us fishing a big dry and the other fishing a streamer.  This small creek contained brook and rainbow trout, and for the size of the creek the fish were quite large.  Shaun started first and on his first couple of casts hooked up with a 20"+ rainbow in a spot you could almost leap across.  Unfortunately, it broke off at the junction between line and water walker, but it was an encouraging sign.  He caught a couple of other smaller rainbows, and at that point, we decided I would also throw a dry.  We split up, and Fede and I fished behind Shaun and Aled, playing leapfrog along the way.  In a narrow bend, I had a good sized brook trout come up and nail the beetle.  I was able to keep it out of the algae, and we got some nice shots of it before releasing it.  We switched back and forth from the beetle to a small streamer depending on the character of the stream.  I caught another good sized brook trout on a different dry fly and several on the streamer.  We rendezvoused for our last riverside lunch, sadly.  From there, we fished the last stretch of water, catching mostly smaller fish and soaking in the abundant sunshine.  We made our way back to the camp for one last dinner with the whole group- guests, staff, guides, and helpers.  It was my favorite night of the whole trip.  Lots of laughter and good conversation.  We went to bed feeling satisfied we had squeezed everything out of this trip, and while we were sad to leave, we felt contentment.  

Sunrise on the last full day

We drove through that creek twice daily

Changing landscape from mountains to steppe

Visual of how small the creek got

Undercut banks, weeds, and shadows

My first brookie of the day

Fishy water

Looking for more fish, notice the grass bent sideways

Beautiful spots on this one

Beetle eater

Last steam side lunch

Closing out another day

Festive

Guide science lesson

Last light of last day

Argentina, I love you

  We left the next morning at nine am to make the roughly three hour drive to the Esquel airport.  Fede and Aled were to pick up their next guest shortly after we departed, so we waited together in the small airport that had one gate, which was really just the door you walked out to board the plane from the tarmac.  You could throw a paper airplane from the ticketing gate to security, so it was easy to see when it was time to make our way to the gate.  Saying goodbyes to Fede and Aled, we boarded our flight which was luckily headed straight for EZE, allowing us to bypass the transfer from AEP.  Our travel back to Olympia was thankfully uneventful, and we made it to pick up Birch by 3:30.  We all headed home on Christmas Eve, exhausted but grateful.