One Month on the Road!

July 24, 2018

Today is the first day of sustained rain since we departed Washington on July 1st, which means I can actually take the time to record some of my thoughts and reflections on our journey thus far.  We are almost 1 full month into traveling in our van, and while it has largely been a blast, like most large undertakings, it was not and is not without challenges, particularly early on in the process.  

The first glaring mistake was bringing too much stuff which led to a gear/possession purge at Wallowa Lake State Park.  At some point, and we had to have been drugged or something, we thought it would be clever to bring along a pair of pink flamingos to set out with the van when we reached our camping destinations.  I realize how dumb that sounds, but we were drugged, remember?  Gear purged, we began to work out the kinks of the setup/takedown process, particularly when we were only going to be in a place for one night.  At first, and no doubt complicated by the aforementioned overpacking, it felt like we were constantly moving and shuffling pieces around so we could move either from the front to the back or even to go from outside to inside.  It was quite stressful but the more we did it and refined our storage solutions which includes never turning down an opportunity to stick any item in any hole or crevice (haha), it has become an almost well-oiled machine as there will always be constraints when living in a cargo van, particularly if one of the residents is 6’4"!!!   You also get really in tune to identifying, by sound only, what items have slid from their space and are rolling around the van.  The most likely offenders are propane tanks and Nalgene bottles.  

We have found a few of our design features to be invaluable including the vent fan which is connected to our solar powered generator allowing for circulation of fresh air or even exhaust of air from within when campfires around the campgrounds are smoldering late at night or in the rain, our present situation.  Other key components include the swivel front passenger seat to open up the space, the mosquito net in the back as the mosquitoes are robust and aggressive, the food storage with a tilt top cabinet which holds 80% of our food and serving items, and the solar shower, which has won its way into our good graces despite a dubious beginning.  Apparently, 15 minutes in partial sunshine is, in fact, not enough time to properly warm the shower, for anyone who is dumber than us.  I gotta tell ya, the water from Quake Lake in Montana is verrrrry cold.  Splurging the extra money on our Rocky Mounts swing away bike rack has been a life saver, allowing us easy access to the back of the van without having to do much of anything with the rack, and it allows us to store our bikes in the best position to keep them in good working order.  

Keeping the back door open allows us to bring in quite a bit of cool air and helps keep the vent fan working efficiently.  The bike rack will swing away 180 degrees to allow both doors to be open simultaneously

Utilizing sportsman trunks on top of the rack to store our gear that we don't often immediately need

One semi-frustrating thing has been our inability to actually operate the van in dining room mode- basically our bed converts into two benches with a table.  It’s not all bad news because part of the reason we haven’t been able to use it is because we’ve been busy and out doing things most days (and the other is, you guessed it, storage issues).  

Our bed is super comfortable, and there have been some days where we had to drag ourselves out of there, particularly a day that involves going to the grocery store.  I have always hated trips to the grocery store, but I loathe them now because it means the van gets very unorganized for a time which gives me flashbacks to the PTSD from our initial overpacked state.  

Grocery day and laundry day combined into one means ultimate van chaos (also unmade bed and mountain bike clothing strewn about...)

Another day I don’t like is reorganize from hotel stay day.  One of the benefits of being our age and doing this is that we have the money to stay in hotels every 5 or 6 days to regroup and take a real shower, among other things.  We also utilize this time to inventory our gear, supplies, and to do laundry, sometimes at a laundromat or sometimes just in the sink if it’s simple stuff.  

With the exception of Wallowa State Park on 4th of July weekend, we’ve been extremely lucky with our campsites both in location and company.  You can imagine what a state park on the lake is like on a ‘Merica holiday, but mostly, we’ve had great places to stay.  We have a backpacking trip lined up for next week, so we are going to splurge on a nicer hotel before we head out so we can feel extra clean before we get extra gross.  

So enough about the day to day, lets get to some of the trip highlights over the last month!

Fiery morning skies with the Hat Point Lookout swaying from the wind in the distance

Sunrise from our campsite near Hat Point

Alpine golden hour from our most recent campsite

When we arrived in Stanley, Idaho, we really wanted to get out and stretch the legs a bit and get to hiking.  Being at altitude, around 7000’, we thought we should take it a little easy to help acclimate, so naturally we chose a 10 miler that we turned into 13 because it was so scenic, we didn’t want to turn around.  We chose to hike to Sawtooth Lake, probably one of the top 2 or 3 most popular hikes in all of the Sawtooth range, but as we learned hiking in the Cascades, it pays to go early.  We found solitude and peace sitting around the lake and snacking.  We walked the perimeter of the lake and beyond, crossing some stubborn snowfields for views of more peaks and lakes before deciding we better turn around and get back to the car (and by car I mean beer and hamburgers).  The wildflowers were abundant, the people on the way down were more so.  It was in the 80’s that day, and I still can’t believe how many people were setting out on the trail at 11am or later.  After hiking, we stopped at a bar to get aforementioned beer and burger, but what we didn’t realize is that it was a local biker bar, and they didn’t take kindly to outsiders.  Well, we finally got a beer and were able to watch the ET and shootout of the Russia/Croatia WC match with a bunch of Idahoans who knew nothing about soccer despite the fact that the knew everything about how to solve the world’s problems including getting the Thai boys out of that damn cave.  Despite the grizzled old bartender and an awful lady from the Merc we dubbed Black Lung Barb, there were also some really nice people such as the clerk at the S Stanley Store who was warm, welcoming, and enthusiastic to hear of our plans.   

Sawtooth Lake

After Stanley, we headed to Montana.  A definite high point was fishing in the dark, after a remarkable sunset, on the Madison River with $3 dips and kiiiilllliiiing it!  We landed 9 fish in about 40 minutes and all were sizable.  The hole was hiding in plain sight, but everyone else had gone home, presumably because it was dark, but the fish were hungry, and we were not, so we stayed and were rewarded handsomely!  It felt like we were hooking up on every cast which was great because otherwise the fishing there sucked as there were hoards of people putting constant pressure on the fish.  That was disappointing, but this night was memorable.  We tied off the Madison leg of our trip with a delicious breakfast at a mom and pop place along the river where I met some people from Bariloche, Argentina, a favorite place of mine and Shaun’s.   

Dark, noise pollution free skies make for a very happy Milky Way photographer

Striking sunset over the Madison River

Brown town!

Tough to get quality photos in the dark, but you get the idea

From the Madison, we drove along the Gallatin River toward our first hotel night of the trip and a much needed FaceTime date with my best friend in Big Sky Montana.  Along the drive, I spotted a mother moose and calf along the edge of a roadside lake.  We pulled over and watched them move from land to water and proceed to splash and swim around before getting back to their grazing.  It was fascinating to see them handle water and land with equal aplomb and to witness a light hearted moment, a departure from the utilitarian nature we tend to associate with wildlife (eat, sleep, waste, reproduce, die, you get the idea).  Pretty much everything about Big Sky was awesome.  We hiked to Beehive Basin, another popular trail, but again, going early and walking further than everyone else, you can find the peace and quiet among the popular places.  They are popular for a reason, and there is no sense in ignoring them completely.  The people in the town and local businesses were super friendly and helpful, and the beer at Beehive Brewery was cold and refreshing.  We also found out that Franz bakery makes Hawaiian loaves of bread which has been life changing for the emotional eater in both of us!  Another laundry day faced us, and while it isn’t the most thrilling endeavor, it is aided tremendously when you find a laundromat that has a full bar and a slew of games, including Mancala, a personal favorite.  We ended up extending our stay in Big Sky so we could do more fishing on the Gallatin after finding mostly frustration on the Madison.  We had good success and caught lots of fish, particularly nice looking ones in a meadow near the entrance to Yellowstone.  We also got to watch an otter family just on the other side of the river from us frolic and out fish us both.  We met some nice camp neighbors who were in their 60’s and were also on an extended time off to travel, inspired by one of their recent illnesses which helped give them perspective on life and further validate our decision to do what we are doing.  They had lived all over, including Gig Harbor, and had decided to make Bozeman their home, and I can’t say we won’t do the same thing when this is all over.  

  

Mother moose and calf going for a dip on a sweltering Montana day

Beehive Basin near Big Sky ski area

Traversed higher up the basin to find some solitude

Productive fishing on the Gallatin River

Hungry rainbows on the Gallatin River

From Big Sky, we headed toward Bozeman for an oil change and to attend to other logistics before heading into Yellowstone.  If the fishing pressure on the Madison was bad, the combination of fishing pressure and weird weather pretty much blew that frustration out of the water.  Thunderstorms and rain blew out the Lamar, Soda Butte, and Slough leaving us the mighty Yellowstone and some smaller creeks to explore.  One such was Cache Creek, which departs from the Lamar River trail at the junction with Specimen.  The hike back to the creek was beautiful, from walking among the many bison to moving seemingly from meadow to meadow full of wildflowers.  Baby bison played, the males made lots of noise, and we all got along and shared the trail like neighbors.  Cache Creek was largely unaffected from the rains and we were able to catch several fish in just a few minutes, no record breakers but colorful little guys/girls, and we were alone, except for one bison lumbering around the river banks.  We were about 4 miles in at the Creek when we noticed some ominous clouds forming.  We decided not to go any further and to keep a close watch on the weather to avoid getting stuck in a dangerous situation.  Guess what, we got stuck in a dangerous situation, multiple dangerous situations actually.  We started hearing distant rumblings of thunder and the clouds had darkened and thickened.  We hastily broke down our fishing setup and started hiking out immediately, still wearing our wading boots, just trying to get a jump on the impending storm.  After climbing the steep hill away from the creek, we paused to change back into our hiking boots and some dry socks.  About 3.5 miles from the car, we knew we were about to get drenched, and did we!  After living in Washington, we weren’t afraid of a little rain, it was the lightning that seemed to be growing closer by the minute.  After a small reprieve from the rain and wind, it soon returned, this time bringing with it hail and a giant bison beast blocking the trail.  Circumventing him, we were back on the trail and about 1.5 miles from the car, when we rounded the corner and saw what looked like the entirety of the Lamar Valley bison herd squarely on the trail.  We paused to consider our options, not exactly sure what the best decision was.  Once again, mother nature forced us to act quickly.  The hail, wind, and lightning/thunder intensified, which sent the bison scattering in all directions, including running in ours.  Almost simultaneously, we both stated the need to get to higher ground to be able to gauge the threat while also realizing it is not wise to climb to higher ground during a lightning storm.  We found a compromise, avoiding the highest point but still clearing the bison by a wide berth.  Adrenaline was definitely on overdrive, but thankfully, at this point, the weather broke, the bison soothed, and we were able to descend, get back on the trail, aka small river, and make our way to the van.  When we finally arrived back to the van, I looked down at my socks which were completely saturated and noticed that the wool fibers were sticking straight out and so were Shaun’s- I guess there was a lot of electricity around us.  It was Type 2 fun for sure, but it was also an incredible memory.  

Yellowstone was largely disappointing from a fishing and weather perspective, but we were able to find some moments to appreciate our surroundings including a picturesque sunset near Mt Washburn that included the gamut of weather, true to form, wonderful Camp Hosts at Pebble Creek, the world’s best burger after Hiking the Black Canyon of the Yellowstone, and epic van naps during the daily thunderstorms.  

Bison wandering through the Lamar Valley

Mother and calf traversing through the morning light in the Lamar Valley

Moody skies from near Mt Washburn

Rain in the distance on the Cache Creek trail

From Yellowstone, we headed out the Northeast Entrance and to Cody, WY for a hotel night.  We found a strange convergence of Harley groups and tour buses full of Internationals who seemed afraid of each other, and we were afraid of both, having grown accustomed to our quiet life away from sights, sounds, and proximity in cities, even cities as small as Cody.  The morning of our departure, we were able to do some mountain biking at Beck Lake there in Cody, and it was a pleasant surprise.  It was nice to break a sweat and pump the legs on the Daily Grind and reap the reward of long descent with rollers and banks to get the adrenaline going.  Of course, we had to stop a few times during our ride to wait for the open range livestock to mooooove along.  

Livestock on the roads, livestock on the trails

Quality trails in Cody, WY

We headed toward the junction with Beartooth Pass and stayed a night along Lake Creek where we witnessed an amazing sunset over two dramatic, shall not be named peaks.  It seemed to go on forever and intensified with time.  

Spectacular layers and illumination atop the peak during a scenic sunset

Our next destination I am keeping a secret because it was so amazing, I don’t want any of you to know because I don’t want to share it with anymore people than those who already know!

Alpine lakes and multi-sport days.  Riding our bikes to nearly 10000’ to fish for brookies and cutties followed by a day of route finding to an unknown lake full of beautiful and undisturbed Yellowstone Cutthroat trout.  We hiked on trail and past where the trail ended, scrambled over rock gardens and up slick-rock, forded streams and alpine lakes, followed creek drainages, and dodged grizzly bear droppings.  The fishing was successful, the scenery was unmatched, and we had the satisfaction of knowing that we found a place few, if any, ever do.  We also stumbled upon a man’s wallet along the trail, a man we had talked to as we descended toward our camp, and by a stroke of pure luck and serendipity, we passed him on our way back into the campground from a local store where we had attempted to call his family to alert them we had his wallet.  It was a happy ending to an amazing day.  Some sightseeing the next day complete with my first sightings of mountain goats this trip, and we were actually relieved to have a rainstorm just so we could rest and regroup a little.  As I type, Shaun is writing in his fishing journal, and it is so peaceful in the van and the world.  

We met a really nice retired man, Dave, and his Border Collie, Kasie, at the alpine campsite.  He has done a lot of hiking in this area and was interested to hear our stories from each days adventures.  He told us neither he nor his dog get out and hike like they used to due to a back injury and arthritis respectively, but something tells me he does more than most 65+ yo people do and his dog does more than most 10 yo doggies do.  Seeing so many dogs, particularly herding dogs has made us both really long for our two special pups we have lost in the last two years.  Dave gave us his email address and told us to keep him posted on our adventures which we likely will do, and who knows, maybe we’ll run into them again in that same marvelous place.  

Lovely Yellowstone Cutthroat

Alpine Lake which shall not be named but bears plentiful Yellowstone Cutthroat

Approaching one of the many stream fords

Yikes!

Taking the creek drainage back down to the trail 

Who's got two full thumbs?  Not Shaun!

To Missoula for one last logistical errand (getting our windshield replaced- thanks Oregon!) before heading into the Bob for a few nights next week!  One hotel will be a night to get a good shower and to shave my legs, probably twice just because I can as well as backpacking inventory and grocery shopping- blaaaah- followed by the weekend on Rock Creek for some fishing.